27.1.09

Toronto Life | Restaurants Guide

EDITORIAL REVIEW
Lovers of Indian cuisine won’t find fluorescent lighting, curries that all taste the same or token wines here. This is sophisticated Indian food served in a stylish, elegant (albeit very noisy) room. A signature cocktail—gin with cucumber juice and green chili—prepares the palate for the innovative yet authentically Indian fare to follow. The vegetarian hors d’oeuvre eschew greasy pakoras or stodgy samosas for light and flaky kidney bean bhajis, a crisp coconut-asparagus samosa and a smooth, delicate spinach-fig tikki patty. EntrĂ©es follow suit, with expertly cooked fish and meats set in pools of heady sauces. Naan is lighter and flakier than other Toronto versions. Desserts continue to dazzle, with garam masala truffles a particular highlight. Excellent wines by the glass match the extravagant flavours. Mains $21–$26.

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