Amaya just sounds beautiful.
The latest resto to open on Bayview Avenue has a soft-sounding name. As owner and sommelier Hemant Bhagwani explains, it means “no delusions” in Sanskrit.
Bhagwani is hip, well-traveled and an experienced hand in this business, having opened and operated several restaurants, from Mantra to Kama Sutra. His business partner is Derek Valleau, formerly of Crush.
We arrive with high expectations, expecting beguiling aromas to seduce us into the doors like the bright colours and aromas of a market but the small front entrance is quite discreet.
A small entrance way leads into the front bar area. The intense, hot colours of saris and bowls of spice are transferred over to the dangling jewel-toned lights and the row of candles at the edge of the bar. The dining room has a modern, yet imperious post-colonial Indo-British feel. The light wood and the practical office style chairs are reminiscent of another era. Dark, framed photographic art with various scenes from India is the modern touch, along with the massive trio of black string globes. Formal linen and table settings have the added touch of coloured madras-style napkins. The black-shirted waiters are calm and collected.
Manager Lynn Stimpson shows me to my corner table and leaves me to the drinks list and menu. Pepper-laced poppadums and a pot of mango mint chutney arrive while I read. The first thing that catches my eye is a rosewater infused martini. I must try Lynne's 'Lychee Rose' ($10). The rose aroma wafting up from the drink restores the dashed equilibrium of the day.
Stimpson ask the chef to make me a small platter of different starters. A rectangular plate arrives with Amaya prawns (14), curried squid ($8), harra kebab ($6) and tandoori paneer ($12). The prawns are bathed in a slightly smoky yet seductive sauce, evidence of the roasted seeds and spices used for the massala. The squid, with a tumeric curry leaf dusting, is excellent, as are the kebabs -- little spinach stuffed discs of cheese, dipped in curry and quickly sauteed. Paneer is mild cheese, a chameleon depending on what is used to dress it up. The intense tandoori seasoning and colour lifts it out of its obscurity, giving it a life of its own. I decide that with such a mix, a Kingfisher Lager from India is the right cooling touch for the cuisine.
There's a big selection of main dishes, from vegetarian, seafood, poultry and meat dishes not to mention the accompaniments of different breads like naan, roti and paratha and basmati rice dishes and various chutneys. I'm a completely willing victim to vindaloo, that intensely spicy cuisine with Goan roots. Yet, I love duck, so the chef creates a special dish -- splitting a Kerala Pepper Duck ($19) with an order of Lamb Vindaloo ($17). The tandoori-spiced duck is great to begin and I finish with the lamb. I'm in a fiery heaven of sorts by now, quenched with the addition of a dry Alsatian gewürztraminer.
Amaya has laid-back class. And, there aren’t any delusions about the quality of food, service and personable attention to detail at this chic new addition to Leaside.
Recommended Dishes: Harra kebab, Curried Squid, Amaya Prawns, Lamb Vindaloo
Dinner for two: $80+
Reservations: Recommended
Wheelchair Access: No
by Patricia Noonan, photos by Mona Kiriakopoulos
